Materials

Cultivated leather tissues under the microscope.

© Faircraft

French Cultivated Leather Startup Faircraft Secures €15M to Meet Demand for Ethical Materials

France’s Faircraft, a cultivated leather startup based in Paris, announces it has raised €15 million to expand its team and scale up operations to meet the increasing demand for sustainable materials. Faircraft was founded in 2021 by CEO Haïkel Balti, an engineer in materials science, and biochemist César Valencia Gallardo. Leveraging cell biology and unique tissue engineering techniques, they aim to offer a new class of materials with a lower environmental impact, starting with “real leather without the animal.” Kindred Ventures (USA), Cap Horn (France), BPI France, Blue Wire Capital (UK), Sake Bosch (Netherlands), Entrepreneur First (UK), Alliance for Impact (France), and Heirloom (USA), backed the startup’s sustainable leather in this round. “Lab-grown leather represents a major evolution that goes far beyond the fashion industry …

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AMSilk new partnership

© AMSilk

AMSilk and Ajinomoto Join Forces to Advance Bio-Based Silk Proteins for High-Performance, Biodegradable Textiles

German biotech company AMSilk GmbH has entered into a long-term partnership with Ajinomoto Foods Europe, an affiliate of the Ajinomoto Group, to manufacture biobased silk proteins at large scale for biodegradable textiles. The collaboration will leverage Ajinomoto’s extensive industrial expertise in precision fermentation and its strategically located site in Nesle, France. The facility is close to AMSilk’s key customers in the premium textiles and consumer goods industries. Additionally, it uses local raw materials and renewable energy, aligning with AMSilk’s commitment to sustainable business practices. Hiroshi Kaneko, President of Ajinomoto Foods Europe, shared: “We are thrilled to partner with AMSilk and are committed to accelerating the market development of their innovative products by supporting their large-scale biomanufacturing efforts. Together, we aspire to create a substantial economic and social …

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GOB mycelium earplugs

© GOB

GOB and Ecovative Introduce World’s First Mycelium-Based Compostable Earplugs

San Francisco-based startup GOB has launched the world’s first compostable earplugs made entirely from mycelium, an eco-friendly alternative to traditional plastic-based earplugs. Mycelium, the root structure of mushrooms, offers a biodegradable solution to the estimated 40 billion plastic earplugs produced globally each year, many of which contribute to environmental pollution. The earplugs are created in partnership with Ecovative, a leader in mycelium technology, and are produced using agricultural byproducts that are formed into shape by robotic systems. GOB’s earplugs have been designed to maintain sound clarity while providing effective noise reduction.  Unlike traditional foam earplugs that can distort certain frequencies, GOB’s product is described as offering balanced sound absorption while avoiding the muffling effect commonly associated with PVC-based products. Earplugs that feed the soil GOB’s …

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Image courtesy of Beyond Leather Materials

Beyond Leather Materials and TAKT Launch Designer Chairs Featuring Vegan Upholstery Made from Apple Waste

Two Danish companies — Beyond Leather Materials and the furniture house TAKT — have partnered to create high-quality furniture that combines Scandinavian design with environmentally friendly materials. After years of collaboration, the companies have finally introduced eight of TAKT’s design chairs upholstered with Leap, Beyond Leather Materials’ vegan-certified leather alternative made from apple waste. The collaboration marks the first time Leap is used in furniture and TAKT’s first vegan upholstery option. “At TAKT, we aim to create furniture that is as good for the planet as for the people, and Leap fits perfectly into that vision,” said Michael Lysemose, Product Developer at TAKT. “We wanted to offer an animal-free option that would still be of high quality and would match with our Design Principles, and …

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Qorium, a Dutch biotech startup founded by cultivated meat pioneer Mark Post, has announced a significant milestone in scaling up the production of cultivated leather.

Image courtesy of Qorium

Mark Post-Founded Qorium Unveils 35x35cm Cultivated Leather Sample as “Tangible Proof” of a Promising Future

Qorium, a Dutch biotech startup founded by cultivated meat pioneer Mark Post, has announced a significant milestone in scaling up the production of cultivated leather. Qorium’s platform combines specifically developed cultured cells with tissue engineering processes to create a product with the same strength, durability, and appearance as animal leather but without its environmental impact. Using a newly scaled-up tissue bioreactor, the biotech company says it has produced a 35x35cm sample of cultivated leather — the first proof of concept for full-scale commercialization of its production process. CEO Michael Newton shared, “This sample is tangible proof that a future where high-quality, high-performing leather can be produced on-demand, without the animal welfare and environmental disadvantages of traditional material, is just around the corner. The challenge of …

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Cardholders made with the biomaterial new grain.

Image courtesy of Arda Biomaterials

Arda Biomaterials & Beavertown Brewery Introduce “First-of-its-Kind” Spent Barley Grain Cardholders

UK upcycled materials startup Arda Biomaterials continues to work on introducing its animal- and plastic-free material New Grain — developed from spent grain from breweries — to the public. Following a partnership with the sustainable brand BEEN London, Arda announces today a collection of sustainable fashion accessories crafted with New Grain, developed using spent brewery barley grain from London’s iconic craft beer producer Beavertown Brewery. TJ Mitchell, CTO of Arda Biomaterials, shares: “This partnership is a perfect example of how we can be fast-movers in supporting local supply chains and contributing to a circular economy, all while offering consumers unique products directly linked to their favourite breweries and distilleries, such as Beavertown.” Cardholders from your favorite beer The collection’s first product is a limited edition …

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CONSUMER by NONGZAO transforms ordinary plastic objects into eco-friendly items by using them as molds for mycelium grown on agricultural waste, such as coffee grounds and rice husks.

© NONGZAO

This Design Studio Shapes Mycelium and Coffee Grounds into Biodegradable Everyday Objects

Chinese design studio NONGZAO has launched a new project called CONSUMER that explores using mycelium and agricultural waste to transform everyday plastic objects into aesthetically unique biodegradable items. Designers Gang Xu, Yatu Tan, Lili Liang, and Zixin He started by using popular and widely available plastic stools, chairs, and lighting fixtures as molds for the mycelium to grow on coffee grounds and rice husks. Coffee grounds are rich in nutrients such as cellulose and lignin, which favor mycelium growth while allowing food waste to be turned into functional objects. Additionally, the process recycles waste and absorbs carbon, reducing atmospheric CO2 levels. Breaking from industrial waste Every mold infused with the biological material transforms into a unique and organic form, shaped by the growth patterns of …

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Cadillac's SOLLEI

© General Motors

MycoWorks and GM Unveil Cadillac EV SOLLEI, the First Car with Mycelium Leather Interior

Biomaterials innovator  MycoWorks and its previous investor, General Motors, partnered to co-develop mycelium materials tailored for car interiors in 2022. Two years later, the companies introduced what they claim to be the first automobile to incorporate a mycelium bio-based material as an alternative to plastic and leather. The automobile, Cadillac’s latest concept EV SOLLEI, features MycoWorks’ Fine Mycelium in an iridescent version in the charging mats on the console and door map pockets, showcasing its versatility in sustainable automotive design. As Cadillac’s design director Erin Crossley stated, the new concept aims to redefine travel and material usage with an optimistic, celestial-inspired design. “The SOLLEI concept cultivates the vision for limitless expression and artful integration between travel and leisure,” he added. Pioneering mycelium materials MycoWorks, founded in …

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GALY banner

© GALY

Inditex, Owner of Fashion House Zara, Invests in GALY’s Cultivated Cotton from Plant Cells

Spanish multinational clothing company Inditex, owner of Zara and Massimo Dutti, among other fashion brands, has announced a minority stake investment (the sum has not been disclosed) in GALY, a Brazilian and US biotech producing cultivated cotton from plant cells. GALY was founded in 2019 by Luciano Bueno, a former Deloitte executive. The startup has raised over $33.5 million from notable investors such as Sam Altman, former president of Y Combinator and current CEO of OpenAI, John Doerr from VC Kleiner Perkins, and investment funds such as Material Impact, Agronomics, and Brinc. According to Reuters, Inditex CEO Oscar Garcia Maceiras says the move aligns with the company’s goal of using 25% new-generation materials by 2030. Inditex has already invested in the sustainable material companies Findland’s Infinite …

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Uncaged Innovations closes seed round for leather made from grain

© UNCAGED Innovations

UNCAGED Innovations Raises $5.6M for “World’s First” Sustainable Leather from Grains

New York-based UNCAGED Innovations today announces it has raised an oversubscribed $5.6M Seed investment for its sustainable leather made from grains. The round was co-led by Green Circle Foodtech Ventures and Fall Line Capital, with participation from Ponderosa Ventures, Golden Seeds, and existing investor InMotion Ventures, the investment arm of JLR (Jaguar Land Rover). This investment will be used to bring the product to market, increase production, and expand the team. The latest capital follows the company’s 2023 pre-seed round in which UNCAGED secured $2 million. Director and Head of Sustainability at JLR Rossella Cardone commented at the time, “This is in-line with our strategy on the sustainability and provenance of the materials we use. We must embrace new material possibilities, new processes, and new …

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Otter Box iphone range

© OtterBox

OtterBox Launches Desserto Cactus Leather Cases for iPhone 15 and Apple Watches

OtterBox launches a new and luxurious mobile phone case made from Desserto, a plant-based material derived from the Nopal cactus, to the iPhone 15 series and Apple Watches. According to the company, the Symmetry Series cactus leather cases can withstand everyday drops and bumps. The case also features raised edges for added protection around the display and camera. The Symmetry Series Cactus Leather Case is MagSafe compatible, so MagSafe accessories can be connected at any time. The OtterBox Apple Watch band made from cactus leather rounds off the range of accessories and is designed to be worn all day long. The cactus leather watch bands are characterized by precise stitching and perfect integration with the Apple Watch, according to the company. Made from the same …

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BMW Mini leather-free

© BMW/Mini

PETA Survey Finds Significant Increase in Brands Offering Vegan Car Interiors

A survey by animal rights charity PETA has found a considerable increase in brands offering vegan car interiors worldwide. PETA contacted the most popular car brands in the biggest global markets to find out whether they offer interiors free of animal-derived materials such as leather and wool. Cabin surfaces, seats, trim, and steering wheels were all taken into account. Mercedes-Benz and BMW confirmed that they now offer several models with vegan interiors; the latter recently announced that the 5 Series Touring would feature seat surfaces made from an innovative leather alternative called Veganza. Fiat also offers animal-free interiors, as does Volkswagen for several of its models available on the German market. Volvo, Citroën, Dacia, Peugeot, Renault, smart, and Polestar all offer vegan interior options either …

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Celium cultivated cellulose

© Celium

Polybion Creates “Entirely New Category” With Global Launch of Celium Cultivated Cellulose

Spanish biomaterials producer Polybion has announced that its cultivated cellulose, Celium, is now available worldwide. The company claims the material is more than a leather alternative, and will create an “entirely new category” due to its unique properties. Celium is grown by feeding bacteria with agroindustrial fruit waste; the cells then self-organize and create a cellulose structure as a metabolic by-product. This structure undergoes a sustainable stabilization process, and the resulting leather-like material can be dyed, embossed, and tanned with chromium-free formulations using existing infrastructure. The material’s properties can be tailored for applications such as fashion, sportswear, and the automotive industry — for example, the thickness of the material can be controlled as it grows. Celium is plastic-free and has a much lower environmental impact …

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Saveggy raises funds to replace plastic around fruits and vegetables with its plant-based formula.

© Saveggy

Saveggy Raises €1.76M for Edible Fruit & Veg Coating as Solution to Plastic Packaging

Swedish startup Saveggy has raised €1.76 million (SEK 20M) for its plant-based alternative to plastic packaging designed to preserve the shelf life of vegetables and fruits and prevent food waste.  The startup’s plant-based coating is said to be the only alternative available offering the same shelf life extension as plastic packaging. Additionally, it is the only edible coating for fruits and vegetables with edible skin, such as cucumbers, apples, and eggplants, approved according to EU regulations. Starting with a solution for cucumbers, Saveggy will use the newly raised funds to produce this innovative material at an industrial scale and successfully bring it to market The round was led by impact investor Unconventional Ventures. LRF Ventures, Almi Invest GreenTech, and industry angels also backed the startup’s plastic-free …

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A collage of the brands that have partnered with Spiber

© Spiber Inc.

Spiber Raises Over JPY10 Billion for Mass Production of Fermented Proteins for Materials

Spiber Inc., a Japanese biotech “brewing” sustainable materials for the fashion, automotive, and personal care industry, announces it has raised over JPY10 billion (around $65M) in equity financing. Spiber has raised a total funding of $489 million over 9 rounds. The funding, which included additional investments from existing shareholders, will allow the company to accelerate mass production of its innovative Brewed Protein materials and facilitate global sales.  Founded in 2007, Spiber uses precision fermentation and polymer and material science to develop protein-based alternatives to animal and petrochemical materials. Its polymers can be used to make spider silk, wool, cashmere, leather, fur, and more. The company already operates biomanufacturing plants in Thailand and is building another in Iowa, USA. Kazuhide Sekiyama, Director and Representative Executive Officer …

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A shoe made from bacterial, self-dyeing leather

© Ed Tritton - Imperial College London

UK Researchers Develop First “Self-Dyeing” Plastic-Free Vegan Leather from Bacteria

Imperial College London researchers have developed, using bacteria, a plastic-free, vegan leather that dyes itself black during production. Scientists and material companies have been using microbes to produce sustainable textiles or dyes for the fashion industry; however, the researchers claim this is the first time a material produces its own color pigment. One of fashion’s most environmentally damaging processes is dyeing with synthetic chemicals. The researchers explain that black dyes — especially those used for tanning leather — are particularly harmful.  To solve this environmental problem, the researchers genetically engineered the bacterium Komagataeibacter rhaeticus to simultaneously produce microbial cellulose and the dark pigment eumelanin. Their new process has been published in the journal Nature Biotechnology.  “Inventing a new, faster way to produce sustainable, self-dyed leather alternatives …

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Michael Newton of Qorium

Michael Newton. © Qorium

Qorium: “Our Product Creates Consistent, Beautiful, and Easily Workable Leather”

Founded in 2014, Dutch biotech startup Qorium is developing cultivated leather to provide an ethical and sustainable alternative to animal leather with no compromises on performance. The company’s technology enables the development of leather alternatives with consistent quality and adjustable properties. The result is a premium material with dramatically reduced carbon emissions and waste compared to conventional leather. In 2021, Qorium raised €2.6 million to scale up its technology. The company then announced earlier this year that it had secured further funding as part of its journey towards commercial scale, and revealed it had appointed former Nike senior executive Michael Newton as CEO. We spoke to Newton to find out more about Qorium’s technology and its benefits. What challenges does Qorium face in terms of …

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Researchers use mycelium to make loudspeakers

© iStock/OleksandrKr

Researchers Use Mycelium & 3D Printing to Make Loudspeakers More Sustainable

Germany’s Fraunhofer Institute for Machine Tools and Learning Technology (Fraunhofer IWU) is investigating the potential of mycelium as an effective, affordable, and sustainable material in loudspeaker construction. The researchers aim to process live mycelium using 3D printing, before influencing its growth to achieve both sound-reflecting and sound-absorbing properties. By altering environmental conditions, the properties could be specifically adjusted, creating foam-like structures to absorb sound and dampen vibrations along with solid and smooth structures for sound reflection. Mycelium could therefore be used both for loudspeaker housings and as an insulating material. This technique could reduce the cost of producing transmission line loudspeakers, which are expensive and complex as they contain a pipe up to three metres long to provide bass and reduce resonance. This pipe must …

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AMSilk and BRAIN Biotech successfully improve structural proteins for performance biomaterials.

© BRAIN Biotech

AMSilk and BRAIN Biotech Achieve Milestone in Biodegradable Materials Performance

German Biotech AMSilk GmbH and BRAIN Biotech, a leading provider of solutions for the biologization industry, have been working for a year to create top-notch protein-based fibers for the performance materials sector. Now, at the end of the first phase of the collaboration, they announce that they have successfully optimized a specific natural structural protein for high-performance biomaterials and registered the first patent application for this optimization process — marking a significant milestone for the future sustainable textile industry. Recently, Gudrun Vogtentanz, CSO at AMSilk, commented: “Together with BRAIN Biotech, we are bringing tailor-made material solutions to the market that not only meet the needs of customers but are sustainable. This will enable us to revolutionize the performance materials market in the long term, which is currently dominated …

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BMW interior made with vegan leather

© BMW Group

BMW Offers 100% Animal-Free Interior with Vegan Leather ‘Veganza’ in New 5 Series Touring

BMW is offering a completely animal-free interior option for the 5 Series Touring. According to the company, the interior design of the new vehicle sets new standards in terms of animal welfare and sustainability. The seat surfaces are made from the innovative material “Veganza” and will optionally be available with decorative perforation. Veganza is a vegan leather alternative that is said to offer an improved feel and optimized climate properties. The BMW Group announced in autumn 2023 that it would offer BMW and MINI vehicles with completely vegan interiors and would produce even more sustainable and 100% animal-free vehicles in the future. In cooperation with various startups, BMW is researching and developing innovative materials with leather-like properties that can be used, among other things, for …

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